Are you visiting Normandy? Don’t miss a visit to Rouen Cathedral. Located in the heart of the city, it’s a jewel of Gothic architecture. Built between the 12th and 16th centuries, it’s sure to impress: it’s the tallest cathedral in France! Made famous by the works of Monet, it’s a must-see in Normandy.
In this article, we invite you to discover the many treasures of the cathedral (stained glass windows, tombs of the Dukes of Normandy), a listed historic monument. You’ll also find all our tips in pictures to help you plan your visit!
This review is completely independent, we visited the cathedral anonymously and paid our entrance fee in full.
Why visit Rouen Cathedral?
Is Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral worth a visit?
Yes, there’s no denying it! In fact, we’ve listed it among our 15 ideas for visits to Rouen. In our opinion, Rouen Cathedral is one of the most beautiful in France. Its tormented history is captivating, and its beauty, emblematic of the flamboyant Gothic style, leaves you breathless. What’s more, it’s a monument that blends almost organically into the heart of the city, which sets it apart from other cathedrals. In Rouen, the houses are almost right up against the monument!
Why is Rouen Cathedral famous?
Rouen’s Notre-Dame cathedral is famous both in France and internationally, thanks to Monet, a leading figure in the Impressionist movement. The painter depicted it in a series of 30 paintings in the 1890s. The monument can be admired under different lights, in different seasons. This creates a real sense of intimacy with the cathedral, and gives it a certain contemporary feel.
But the cathedral is also famous for being the tallest in France, with its 19th-century spire rising to 151m!
What we liked best
A visit to Roeun Cathedral is particularly impressive, both inside and out. Here are our favorites:
- the façade and its portals: in our opinion, the façade is the most impressive part of the cathedral. You won’t forget its height and finely sculpted decorative abundance.
- the booksellers’ staircase: this elegant 15th-century stone staircase leads to the cathedral library.
- the Cour d’Albane and its garden: a calm, green space that takes us back to medieval times.
Video tour of the cathedral
Practical tips and map: Rouen Cathedral, France
Where is Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral?
Rouen Cathedral is located at 12 Avenue Aristide Briand in Rouen (76000), Normandy.
- Driving time from Evreux: 01h00
- Driving time from Caen: 01h40
- Driving time from Alençon: 01h50
- Journey time from Cherbourg: 02h50
- Journey time from Paris: 2h00
How to get there
Traffic in Rouen is difficult, especially at rush hour. If you’re coming from the Paris region or Normandy, prefer the train. Rouen railway station has a regular TER line serving Paris (between 1h15 and 1h30) and the main towns in Normandy (Caen, Le Havre…).
See available timetables and book your train and coach tickets now.
Once in the city, you’ll easily find the cathedral in the center of town. From the station, it’s a 25-minute walk. You can also take public transport, which will take you to the monument in around 20 minutes:
- TEOR bus lines: 1, 2, 3 Cathédrale stop.
- Fast bus lines: F1, F7 Arrêt République.
- Bus line 11: République stop.
To plan your journey, please visit the official Rouen Normandie transport network website.
Last but not least, you can rent bicycles in the city 24/7. The Cy’Clic station at Place du Vieux Marché, Square Verdrel / Beaux Arts, is in the immediate vicinity of the cathedral.
Parking
Parking in Rouen’s historic center can be tricky. If you want to be sure of finding a space quickly, we recommend you visit the cathedral parking lot. This pay parking lot is secure, open 24 hours a day and partly underground. You’ll find charging stations for your electric car.
OUR ADVICE FOR RENTING A CAR IN Normandy
- Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars – one of the best rated sites.
- Choose a car that is comfortable enough (distances can be long) but compact (some parking lots and villages are narrow).
- Think of thecomplete insurance (some roads are tortuous and narrow).
- There is a lot of demand, book it early.
Best time to visit Rouen Cathedral
If you’d like to visit Notre-Dame de Rouen Cathedral in peace and quiet, go during the week, outside school vacations, preferably in the morning. In fact, the cathedral is at its busiest between 3pm and 5pm.
Visiting the cathedral during religious services can also be complicated. To avoid visiting the cathedral during these periods, you can find out more on the official diocesan website or at the very end of this article.
Practical information
To admire the cathedral in detail, while reading the explanatory panels, allow between 1h and 1h30 for the visit.
Rouen Cathedral is accessible to people with reduced mobility, as its forecourt is on one level. Special access is also available via the Portail des Maçons on rue du Change. Although the historic heart of Rouen is paved, the cathedral’s floor is rather smooth. A ramp makes the choir accessible to all. The floor has been levelled to facilitate access to the baptistery, while the nave is open on a slope at the level of the Saint-Siméon door. An elevator is installed next to the bookshop. Despite this, some areas are difficult to access, such as the Tour Saint-Romain and the Tour de Beurre. Audiovisual animations available on a projection screen in the Saint-Etienne chapel compensate for this shortcoming.
Cathedral documentation is also available in Braille and large print.
Pets are not allowed inside the monument, with the exception of guide dogs.
You’ll find public toilets open from 6am to 10pm on rue des Bonnetiers (on the side of the cathedral).
Schedules and rates
Notre-Dame de Rouen Cathedral is open:
- April to October: 7:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. weekdays, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays and public holidays.
- November to March: 7.30am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm on weekdays, and 2pm to 6pm on Sundays and public holidays.
The cathedral is closed on Monday mornings, January 1, May 1 and November 11.
Please note that the ambulatory closes 30 minutes before the cathedral’s closing time.
Visits to the cathedral are free of charge.
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Guided tours
Guided tours allow visitors to discover areas usually closed to the public, such as the crypt.
They take place at 2:30pm:
- Saturdays and Sundays all year round.
- Every day of the week during the Christmas and February school vacations (zones B and C), the Easter vacations (zones A, B and C) and the summer vacations (from July to the Heritage Days in mid-September).
More specific, themed tours are also available on request. Find out more on the official tourist office website.
If you want to see all Rouen’s must-see sights in one visit, you can opt for a tour with a local guide. There are also tours focusing on the secrets of the Normandy capital or its sweet culinary specialties.
Where to eat in Rouen
You’ll find plenty of restaurants in Rouen’s historic center. Here is our selection:
- Dame Cakes: housed in a former wrought-iron workshop, this tea room is Emmanuel’s favorite, offering succulent pastries (cakes, tarts, crumbles…) and wedding teas! From the room on the 1st floor, you’ll have a superb view of the cathedral. Dame Cakes is a must for any gourmet break in Rouen!
- Le Cap Vers: a restaurant a stone’s throw from the Seine specializing in world cuisine, revisited with fresh, local produce.
- Le XXI: refined cuisine in a restaurant whose concept is to change the way we look at disability.
WHERE TO STAY IN Rouen
Option 1: in the old town center
A charming historic heart, museums and attractions around every corner… We recommend..:
- Gustave Flaubert Literary Hotel with lots of quotes – see prices, photos and availability.
- Hôtel de Bourghteroulde set in a 16th-century residence – see prices, photos and availability.
Option 2: near the station
Just a 10-minute walk from the historic center, you’ll find more modern options. We recommend..:
- Blu Radisson Hotel next to the Jeanne d’Arc Tower – see prices, photos and availability.
- Hotel de Dieppe Best Western and its Art-deco ambience – see prices, photos and availability
Monet and Rouen Cathedral
Why paint Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral?
Before delving further into the cathedral’s captivating history, let’s start with a detour into Claude Monet’s canvases, which revealed all its beauty. Claude Monet, although born in Paris, was raised in Normandy. After training in Paris, where he met Renoir, Monet took part in group exhibitions, developing an aesthetic aimed at pictorially translating optical phenomena linked to light and color. His work “Impression, soleil levant” (Musée Marmottan Monet, Paris), gave its name to the new Impressionist movement. In 1883, the painter set up his studio in Giverny. Located 72km from Rouen, we’ll soon be devoting an article to this charming village.
It was at this time that Monet achieved international success, thanks to the art dealer Durand-Ruel, who introduced him to the United States. The painter worked on a series of canvases, such as “Les Meules” and “Peupliers”, painted en plein air near his studio.
Claude’s brother Léon Monet settled in Rouen. The painter spent four periods in the Normandy capital, undoubtedly influencing the choice of subject for his future series of canvases: the cathedral.
The cathedral series
In the spring of 1892 and 1893, Monet devoted himself to his most ambitious project: painting the cathedral according to variations in light at different times of day. His first paintings, done en plein air in February 1892, depict the Albanian court. He sets up his studio in an apartment on Place de la Cathédrale, at the west corner of Rue du Gros-Horloge. This enabled him to paint two pictures of the cathedral’s main portal, seen from the front.
Monet moves again to his apartment on the cathedral square, to paint nine canvases of the cathedral portal, this time in perspective.
For an unobstructed view of the western facade and its many details, he then moves to the 1st floor of the Bureau des Finances, a 16th-century building that today houses the tourist office. It was on this occasion that he was most productive, producing eleven of the most colorful paintings in the series.
Finally, from February to April 1893, he began his last series of six paintings. In his new studio at 49 rue Grand-Pont, he now has a perspective view of the portal on the western façade and the Saint-Romain tower. Monet then painted up to 14 versions at a time, switching from one painting to another according to the changing light at different times of the day. This series, presented in 1895 in the Durand-Ruel gallery, won the admiration of Monet’s contemporaries and gave the cathedral international renown.
Where can you admire Monet’s cathedrals?
The 28 works in the cathedral series are now housed in prestigious museums in France and abroad (Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; Fondation Beyeler, Basel; Moma; Getty Center, Los Angeles; National Museum, Belgrade).
In France, you’ll find five paintings from the series at the Musée d’Orsay, including the famous “Le Portail (temps gris)”. Also in Paris, head to the Musée Marmottan-Monet to admire “La Cathédrale de Rouen, façade, soleil couchant”.
Finally, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen holds “La Cathédrale de Rouen. Le Portail et la tour d’Albane. Temps gris” (above): reason enough to visit the museum after the cathedral! Discover our article dedicated to the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen.
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The architecture of Rouen Cathedral
The western facade and its portals
After this artistic detour, let’s return to reality with an exploration of its truly exceptional architecture. The western façade, built between the 12th and 16th centuries, is the widest in France (61m). It was partly rebuilt in the 16th century, after the work on the Beurre tower, which we’ll talk about next. The exceptional duration of this project offers a complete architectural panorama of the Gothic style, from primitive to flamboyant Gothic, with its intricate carvings that foreshadow the entry of the Renaissance style.
The classical Gothic style is evident in the rows of 14th-century statues depicting the bishops of Rouen, apostles and prophets. We were pleasantly surprised by the bell towers on the façade, modelled on English cathedrals (Wells…).
The façade is also remarkable for its three portals:
- Saint-Jean portal : to the north of the western façade, its geometrically designed voussoirs are remarkable. The tympanum, dating from the 3rd quarter of the 13th century, depicts scenes from the life of Saint John the Baptist.
- Saint-Etienne portal: to the south of the western façade, this portal is more classical in style. The voussoirs feature a floral theme, while the tympanum, dating from the 3rd quarter of the 13th century, depicts the stoning of Saint-Etienne.
- The Saint-Romain portal: the central portal of the façade, it’s also the best known. Emblematic of the flamboyant Gothic style, it features a sumptuous rose window and tympanum depicting the tree of Jesse and its descent to the Virgin Mary, to whom the cathedral is dedicated. It’s our favorite!
The towers of Rouen Cathedral
The cathedral features two towers on its western façade:
- Tour Saint-Romain (north): 82m high, it features a 12th-century lower section, corresponding to the early Gothic period. Several levels of increasingly large bays follow one another up to the upper floor, in flamboyant Gothic style (14th century), topped by a slate roof decorated with 4 gilded suns. This is the site of the cathedral’s carillon, one of the largest in France.
- The Tour de Beurre (south) : 75m high, it is characteristic of the flamboyant Gothic style. Its 4 levels are punctuated by buttresses enriched with niches housing statues. We found this tower very beautiful, with its pinnacle crown that inspired the architects of Chicago’s Tribune Tower.
The cathedral’s third tower, known as the “Lantern Tower”, is located at the crossing of the transept. Its three levels date from the 13th and 16th centuries respectively. The most recent part is marked by the Renaissance style, with statues nestling under canopies adorned with shells. In 1523, a 1st wooden spire was installed, but was destroyed by fire in 1822. A cast-iron spire replaces it, reaching 151m. Just like us, you’ll be impressed!
Transept portals
When visiting the cathedral, don’t just look at the main façade! The building’s transepts are also adorned with beautiful portals:
- The Libraires portal (north transept): built between the late 13th and early 14th centuries, its architecture is inspired by the transept of Notre-Dame cathedral in Paris, with its rose window and gables. Its tympanum depicts the Last Judgement. The 15th-century canons’ library adjoins the portal, which opens onto the booksellers’ courtyard. In our opinion, this is the cathedral’s most elegant and distinctive portal.
- Portal de la Calende (south transept): built at the same time as the portal in the north transept, the influence of Notre-Dame de Paris can also be seen here. The rose window is surmounted by a sculpted group depicting the Coronation of the Virgin, while the tympanum illustrates the Paschal Mystery.
The Albane chevet and courtyard
Don’t forget to take a look at the back of the cathedral! We admired its chevet, enclosing the chapel of the Virgin. Its pointed-arch windows are topped with Gothic curves. Amid the pinnacles stands a 16th-century golden Madonna. The south side of the choir, facing rue des Bonnetiers, features 13th-century religious buildings (sacristy, vestry, etc.).
Finally, we enjoyed the gardens of the Cour d’Albane, adjoining the cathedral. The garden follows the lines of the cathedral’s unfinished cloister, begun in the 13th century. This green space, calm despite the hustle and bustle of the city center, is punctuated by architectural features from the monument’s renovations. In all, 8 gardens have been laid out according to historical themes recalling the past of this 2,000m2 courtyard. Archaeological digs in 1987 and 1991 revealed that the courtyard had also been home to an ancient villa, a medieval chapel and a 15th-century bell oven.
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The riches of Rouen Cathedral
When we entered the monument, we were surprised: the interior seemed less vast than we had first thought. This is quite normal, as the towers of the façade are not aligned with the nave. This one, though sober, is elegant. Dating from the 13th century, it has 11 bays and rises over 4 levels, a typical feature of early Gothic architecture. Don’t forget to look up at the vaults, particularly the highest (54m) at the transept crossing at the lantern tower. This is also where you’ll find our favorite feature of the visit: the booksellers’ staircase, or Bibliothèque du Chapitre staircase, leading to the archives floor.
Take the time to observe the aisles, the side aisles of the nave. You’re about to see something that only exists in Rouen Cathedral: on each pillar, you’ll notice that the vaults rest on sets of 5 colonnettes. We found it particularly beautiful.
Take a tour of the baptistery, the lower room of the Saint-Romain tower. This will give you the chance to see an example of Romanesque architecture in the oldest part of the cathedral, with the crypt (accessible by reservation only at thetourist office).
Remarkable chapels
The cathedral is home to many remarkable chapels. Here’s our selection of chapels not to be missed during your visit:
- Chapelle Saint-Etienne-la-Grande-Eglise (lower room of the Tour de Beurre): located right next to the store, this chapel has long been a separate parish church. The 19th-century altarpiece by Fulconis caught our eye. It depicts the Last Supper, the martyrdom of Saint Stephen and the Crucifixion. Various tombstones are also visible. Examples include the praying figure of Claude Groulard, first president of the Parliament of Normandy in the 17th century, and the recumbent of his wife.
- Chapelle Sainte-Catherine: the only chapel to have been spared the bombardments of the Second World War, it is richer than the others. The altar, altarpiece and panelling date from the 17th century. The paintings illustrate the life of Saint-Brice, bishop of Tours in the 5th century. The 16th-century altarpiece depicts the flagellation.
- Chapelle des Fonts: take a look at the 17th-century Spanish-style altarpiece in gilded carved wood. It was donated to the cathedral by Spain in 1937.
- Chapelle Sainte Jeanne d’Arc: dedicated to Joan of Arc, condemned in Rouen, the 1956 stained glass windows by Max Ingrand tell the story of her life. In the center is a statue of Joan of Arc, also from the 20th century. To find out more about the story of Joan of Arc, visit our article on the Historial Jeanne d’Arc.
The choir, ambulatory and recumbent statues
The choir dates from the mid-13th century. With its round pillars, it gave us an impression of lightness and elegance. The apse, with its 3 levels largely occupied by stained glass windows, brings a lot of light to this part of the building. The capitals are decorated with foliage and men’s heads.
The gilded bronze high altar is decorated with ears of wheat, leaves and bunches of grapes. It was cast in 2011 at the famous Coubertin foundry and was designed by architect Pierre-André Lablaude (responsible for the Versailles estate, restoration of theMont-Saint-Michel abbey…) and artist Angelika Potier.
In the ambulatory, you’ll see the original statues on the façade, as well as numerous tombs of the Dukes of Normandy. The one that stands out the most, and also the most famous, is that of Richard the Lionheart.
We didn’t have the chance to visit the chapel of the Virgin, which was closed for renovation at the time of our visit. If possible, however, we recommend a visit (booking required at the tourist office). It is famous for its Renaissance tombs of the cardinals of Amboise and the seneschals of Normandy. It features the Adoration of the Shepherds by 17th-century painter Philippe de Champaigne and sumptuous stained-glass windows.
The cathedral’s stained glass windows
The cathedral boasts a fine collection of stained glass from the 13th to the 20th century. The stained glass windows were installed progressively during the cathedral’s construction. One of the oldest examples is the booksellers’ rose in the north transept. The stained glass windows in the nave were replaced after the Hundred Years’ War. The creation and maintenance of the new stained glass windows were entrusted to Rouen master glassworker Guillaume Barbe, who worked from 1456 to 1488. Stained-glass windows from his studio can still be seen in most of the cathedral’s chapels.
In the Saint-Sever chapel, you’ll see what has become known as the “belles verrières”. It’s actually a blend of primitive 13th-century stained glass (upper sections), with additions by Guillaume Barbe, depicting scenes from the Passion.
We also enjoyed the stained glass windows in the chapel of Saint-Etienne-la-Grande-Eglise. The first series of windows depicts Saints Peter, Andrew, James the Greater, John the Evangelist, Paul and Jude, while the second series illustrates the Glorious Life of Christ. Although these stained glass windows date back to the 16th century, their authors are still unknown.
Finally, don’t be surprised to see some contemporary stained glass. They were created by Max Ingrand (1908-1969), one of the best-known post-war painters and designers. Although dating from 1956, these stained glass windows blend in well with the rest of the building. For example, they have been installed in the chapel of Saint-Léonard. Indeed, some of the cathedral’s original stained glass windows have been damaged in the course of its turbulent history.
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A little history
Paleochristian and Romanesque periods
Speaking of troubled history, we’d like to give you a few pointers to help you better understand this building. The cathedral’s history dates back to the 4th century, with a building composed of 2 religious edifices, which was destroyed in the 9th century by the Vikings. In the 10th century, Rouen became the capital of the duchy of Normandy. A new basilica serves as a necropolis for the first dukes of Normandy, such as Rollon, whose recumbent is visible in the ambulatory, and Richard the Lionheart.
The cathedral was built in Romanesque style from 1020 onwards. The crypt was also created to enlarge the building. It was consecrated in 1063, in the presence of William the Conqueror.
The construction of the Gothic cathedral
Around the middle of the 12th century, Archbishop Hugues d’Amiens decided to modify the monument. He added the Saint-Romain tower in 1145. Doubtless influenced by the beginnings of the Gothic style at Saint-Denis Cathedral, the next archbishop, Gautier the Magnificent, had the Romanesque nave demolished in 1185. Construction of the Gothic elements was almost complete by 1240. Only the axis chapel, the western façade, the canons’ cloister and the transept portals were built in the early 14th century. It was not until the end of the Hundred Years’ War that the Tour de Beurre (completed in the 15th century) and the top floor of the Tour Saint-Romain were completed in the flamboyant Gothic style.
Fire, damage and restoration
Like most cathedrals, Notre-Dame Cathedral has undergone a number of fires and damages that have accelerated its transformation process. The first fire, in 1200, largely destroyed the Romanesque edifice, precipitating its evolution into the Gothic style. In 1562, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots (Protestants) ransacked the cathedral’s furnishings and statues. A storm then devastated the monument (facade, rose window, crowning turret…). Thanks to a gift from Louis XIV, the building was restored. It was preserved during the French Revolution, serving as a concert hall and hayloft. Lightning destroyed the Renaissance spire of the Lantern Tower in 1822, and it was replaced by the current Gothic bronze spire.
Allied bombing during the Second World War destroyed most of the cathedral (roof structure, nave aisles, side chapels, then the Saint-Romain tower). The building was saved in extremis. Restoration work enabled the cathedral to be reopened in 1956. In 1987, the roof of the Saint-Romain tower was restored. Following the storm of 1999, the choir vaults were breached. Since 2010, major restoration work has been underway to consolidate the cathedral’s structure and buttresses.
Frequently asked questions:
When can you see Rouen Cathedral illuminated?
Every summer at dusk (June to September), the cathedral’s facade is brought to life by a sound and light show.
The themes of the shows change every year, but remain linked to the history of Rouen and the cathedral (Impressionism, Joan and the Vikings, the epic of William the Conqueror…): a good excuse to come back and see the cathedral regularly!
What’s on at Rouen Cathedral?
Numerous concerts are organized at the cathedral, and not just religious ones (Rouen University Hospital choir…). We invite you to consult the calendar on the cathedral’s official website.
What tourist attractions are nearby?
Many tourist attractions are located close to the cathedral, including museums and monuments:
- Château de Rouen and Tour Jeanne d’Arc: this keep is the only vestige of Rouen castle, built in the 13th century.
- Historial Jeanne d’Arc : a museum where you can discover the life of Joan of Arc (see our dedicated article).
- The Gros-Horloge: a 14th-century clock emblematic of Rouen! (see our dedicated article coming soon).
- Musée des Beaux-Arts: (see our dedicated article).
- Abbatiale Saint-Ouen – Rouen: all that remains of this former 16th-century Benedictine monastery is its church.
- Musée d’Histoire Naturelle de Rouen: (see our dedicated article coming soon).
- Musée maritime fluvial et portuaire: traces the history of the port of Rouen (see our dedicated article).
- Musée Flaubert et d’histoire de la médecine: located in the house where Flaubert was born, this museum displays objects that once belonged to him (see our dedicated article soon).
Are there any interesting anecdotes about the cathedral?
Several anecdotes are linked to the cathedral:
- The name of the Tour de Beurre: There are 2 possible explanations for its name. First, there’s the color of the tower’s stones, which are more yellow than those of the rest of the building. Historians, however, believe that this had more to do with the financing of the tower: the Archbishop of Rouen had authorized the people of Rouen to eat butter during Lent in exchange for a tax used to build the tower.
- The statues on the façade are actually copies: it’s true! Most of the originals are located in the ambulatory, to protect them from the elements and pollution.
- The tripartition of Richard the Lionheart’s body: the cathedral retains only the heart of the King of England. His entrails are located in Châlus (Haute-Vienne) and his body is buried at the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud. To find out more, visit our article dedicated to the abbey!
What Masses are held at Rouen Cathedral?
Sunday mass is celebrated every Sunday and holiday from 8:30am to 10:30am. From Tuesday to Saturday, mass is at 10am. Vespers is at 5pm every Sunday during Advent, Christmas, Lent and Easter. Finally, the sacrament of reconciliation takes place on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 4pm to 5:30pm, on Wednesdays from 2:30pm to 5:30pm and on Saturdays from 11am to 11:45am and from 3:30pm to 5:30pm.
All our tips in this article were put into words with the help of Fanny.
