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Home » Dieppe and its region

What to do in Veules-les-Roses (Normandy): river circuit

by Claire | March 18, 2023 | no intrusive ads, no sponsored content, just some affiliate links - if you use them, we get a small commission (info)

Discover one of the most famous villages of Normandy: Veules-les-Roses and its river circuit.
There are many things to see while walking along the shortest river of France: old houses, cliffs, mills, history, beach…
Here is our guide to help you plan your visit with tips, maps and photos: what to do in Veules-les-Roses.

village Veules-les-Roses normandy what to see
Visit the village of Veules-les-Roses
Content
Why visit the village of Veules-les-Roses?
What to do in Veules-les-Roses?
Practical advice – Veules-les-Roses, Normandy
River circuit – Source of the Veules, watercress fields, mills…
Center and church of the village of Veules-les-Roses
Beach of Veules-les-Roses
Detour 1- Cerons Memorial
Detour 2 – Panorama on the cliffs
Way back

Why visit the village of Veules-les-Roses?

The smallest river in France

Veules-les-Roses is one of the most famous villages in Normandy.
It is known to shelter the smallest river of France which flows into the sea. It is only 1149 m long.
A walk will take you from the source to its mouth in the sea.
Along the way, you will see explanations about the use of the river with the watercress fields and the mills.

Map of the river walk in Veules-Les-Roses
Map of the river walk in Veules-Les-Roses

A charming village

But it is not only the river that is fascinating, it is also the charm of the village that operates. Inside the village you can see different houses typical of the area but from different periods. There are some well-preserved half-timbered houses with thatched roofs.
The whole loop is very pleasant.

Veules-les-Roses received the label “The most beautiful villages of France”. It is one of the best places to visit in Normandy.

visit the village of Veules-les-Roses
Typical old house in Normandy (Veules-les-Roses)

Why the name Veules-les-Roses?

Veules is the name of the river. The name “Veules” can be derived from the Celtic word “Vaele” or from the old English word “well”. They both mean “place of watering”. So, no crazy name here, just something descriptive.
The words “the Roses” were added in 1897.

What to do in Veules-les-Roses?

Our Top 5

We will detail later our visit of the village and the places to see, with photos, but here are our top 5, to give you an idea already:

  • See the source of the shortest river in France
  • Observe the watercress fields
  • Walk the path along the river with thatched cottages and mills
  • Enjoy the traditional brick houses in the heart of the village
  • Climb the cliffs for great views

Video

Below is a short video to give you an idea of what the walk along the river and down to the beach looks like:

Brief history of Veules-les-Roses

It is one of the oldest villages in the region. In the Middle Ages, it was a flourishing fishing port.
However, through the ages, it has had to survive epidemics, fires, tidal floods and more… so, after centuries, it was just a village with a few weavers and farmers.

At the end of the 19th century, sea bathing became very fashionable. Many towns and villages on the Normandy coast have become popular. Veules-les-Roses was one of those places.
Many artists came here to enjoy its charm and be inspired. The most famous is the writer Victor Hugo.

During the Second World War, although it had no port, the village was one of the last episodes of the Battle of the Somme.

Practical advice – Veules-les-Roses, Normandy

How to get to Veules-les-Roses

  • Located in Seine Maritime, along the Alabaster Coast.
  • Between Saint-Valery-en-Caux and Dieppe
  • Dieppe to Veules-les-Roses = 30min drive
  • Le Havre to Veules-les-Roses = 1h15 drive
  • Rouen to Veules-les-Roses = 1h drive
  • It is not easy to reach by public transport.
  • Here is a map to help you find your way:
Map Veules les Roses Normandy location
Map – Veules-les-Roses in Normandy

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Tips for the visit

  • You will find large parking lots at the entrance of the village. This is where the walking loop begins. They are quite large, but I still recommend coming early during the summer months, as it is quite touristy.
  • The toilets are in the parking lots
  • There is a map of the walk at the beginning. And at most stops along the way, you can see explanations of the houses, history, river, structures and more.
  • Allow half a day to explore the village
  • The walk is fairly easy, flat and well maintained. You can add 2 detours that require a climb on the cliffs on each side (slopes and stairs), but not too difficult
  • Restaurants in the center and by the beach – mainly fresh fish and oysters
Parking of Veules-les-Roses

It is an ideal place to spend a night during your trip in Normandy. It has a lot of charm, and you can enjoy the walk early or late when the crowds are gone.

Find the best rated accommodations in the area

Visit the Alabaster Coast:

Practical guide to the Alabaster Coast

What to do in Étretat

Best things to do in Le Havre

What to do in Dieppe

Best things to do in Fécamp

The village of Veules-les-Roses

River circuit – Source of the Veules, watercress fields, mills…

Source of the Veules River

At the beginning of the walk, you can see the source of the river.
It doesn’t sound like much, but given the proximity to the sea, it’s pretty amazing.

Source of the Veules River
Source of the Veules River

Watercress fields

Then, you will discover the watercress fields. This is one of my favorite views along the way.
They are right next to the parking lots.
I love the way the water reflects the light.
They most probably started in the 14th century, taking advantage of the clear water of the river. It was the only salad during the winter and it was very sought after.
They are still produced today (not as much as before, but still a little). This type of production requires 8 to 10 cm of water and sunlight.
The seeds are planted in July. The plants grow until March. It is often rolled to have more contact with the ground.
Harvesting can begin after 6 to 8 weeks. The plants are cut with a knife. No machines.
But only 2/3 of the field is harvested as the rest is used to boost production.

Watercress fields
Watercress fields

Typical old houses

Along the way, you will see many charming old houses.
Some of them were those of the mill owners.
These are typical Norman houses with half-timbering and thatched roof.
Moreover, thanks to the river, the whole area is very green. Many views are fascinating.

Veules les Roses walk houses 1
Veules les Roses walk houses 2
Veules les Roses walk houses 3

Mills on the river

Several mills were built along the river.
Some are very visible, others are not.
The first mention of mills in the village dates back to the 13th century.
After the end of the feudal system, 5 new mills were built in the 18th century.
The last one was built in 1833, near the source of the river. As you can imagine, it lowered the river level below the mill and created some tension in the village.

Veules les Roses mill Anquetil 1
Veules les Roses mill Anquetil 2
Antequil Mill

The two mills that you can see best are a little further down the road, as you move away from the houses.
They were originally used to grind grains and seeds. But later, Anquetil’s was used to operate machines like a forge hammer and produce energy for saws, pumps…

The mill in Anquetil above did not stop working until 1940.
The mill “Des Aieux” (of the ancestors) below was built in the 18th century and stopped working in 1952. Its wheel has been renovated and can still turn. It is the last one to still have its 3 levels inside (explanations available on one of the boards).

Veules les Roses "Moulin des Aieux
“Moulin des Aieux” (Mill)

Stone houses

The path then takes you to a more modern part of the village with stone houses. I also like this part because the houses, with a mixture of flint and brick, are also typical of the area.

Tour of the smallest river in France

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Center and church of the village of Veules-les-Roses

Village center

Before reaching the beach, you cross the center of the village.
They are mostly stone houses, but they have a lot of charm.

Veules les Roses village center
The flint houses of Veules les Roses

The church of Saint-Martin de Veules-les-Roses

Take time to admire the central church of Saint Martin.
Its square tower architecture is typical of the late 12th century, early 13th century.
However, the 3 naves, the choir and the chapels date from the 16th century. They were built in sandstone.

The church Saint-Martin of Veules-les-Roses 1
Church of Saint-Martin de Veules-les-Roses
The church Saint-Martin of Veules-les-Roses 2

Inside, notice the sculptures on the columns. They have a nautical theme: boats, fish, mermaids…
And the organ dates from 1628.

The church of Saint-Martin de Veules-les-Roses sculptures

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Beach of Veules-les-Roses

And then you see the sea.
You can walk all along the water. This is where the river flows into the sea.

Beach of Veules-les-Roses pontoon

It is not one of the best beaches in Normandy (in our opinion), but you can still enjoy the typical cliffs of the Côte d’Albâtre.
From the pontoon, look to the left (south side) and you will see the line of cliffs to Saint-Valery-en-Caux.

Beach of Veules-les-Roses
Beach of Veules-les-Roses
Beach of Veules-les-Roses - huts

Then, on the right (North), you can see beach huts against the cliffs. If you walk along them, you will notice a hole in the cliff.
It is the Victor Hugo cave. Apparently, he liked to contemplate the sea from here, when he stayed in the nearby house of his friend Paul Meurice.

Victor Hugo's cave
Victor Hugo’s cave

Plan your trip to Normandy!

→ Inspiration destinations

Deciding where to go in Normandy – the best destinations
Our weekend ideas: best-of, romantic, unusual, seaside, luxury, family

→ Best-of

Best things to do in Normandy
Best cities in Normandy
Most beautiful beaches of Normandy
Most beautiful villages of Normandy
Best castles of Normandy
Best abbeys of Normandy
Read our complete guide to visit the Mont-Saint-Michel
Discover the D-Day sites

→ Practice

Where to stay in Normandy – best places and hotels
See our tips for renting a car at CDG airport, Orly airport, Beauvais airport, Caen, Rouen, Bayeux…

Detour 1- Cerons Memorial

From the beach, you can simply complete the loop and return to the parking lots (see the return section).
Or you can decide to climb the cliffs of the North. It is a mixture of steep slopes and stairs.

stairs

You will reach an open area with beautiful views of the village and the beach.
But it is also where the Cerons memorial is located. You can learn more about the battle of Veules from June 6 to 12, 1940.

View of the beach of Veules les roses
Memorial du Cerons

Detour 2 – Panorama on the cliffs

As you begin your journey home. You can stay on the streets or head for the trees to find an observation platform and a bunker.
If you’re tired, I don’t think it’s worth it compared to the other amazing views you can get at Etretat or Cap Fagnet near Fécamp.

Detour 2 - Panorama on the cliffs 1
Detour 2 - Panorama on the cliffs 2s

Way back

And then you start heading back to the parking lots.
The path moves away from the river.
There is less to see. Mainly 2 main sights.

Way back

Convent of the penitents

Founded in 1617.
But after the French revolution, in 1791, it was sold as national property. It then became a private property and, unfortunately, the cloister was later destroyed.
All you can see today is the chapel, which was built in 1662. It is now an exhibition hall.

Convent of the penitents
Convent of the penitents

Castle and dovecote

And then you pass by the old castle. Only the exterior walls remain.
However, through the entrance gate of the current private domain, you can see the old dovecote. It dates from the 18th century. It is round and attached to a well.

Dovecote

As you continue walking, you come back to the watercress fields, the spring and the parking lots.

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Claire et Manu blog normandie Bonjour, we are Claire and Manu, sister and brother, and we have been publishing travel guides around the world for 9 years. As true lovers of the beautiful regions of our country, France, our ambition is to bring you all the information and inspiration you need to make your trip there a success.
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